48 timer i Vieste
What to see and what to do for your best weekend getaway so far.
We had no idea what to expect other than endless sea and beautiful beaches. Vieste turned out to be the perfect eye-opener to all Puglia had to offer. Never have I ever been to the same places so many times in so few hours. And never have I ever, been so little interested in leaving. Vieste will make you fall in love.
This is my best advice for a perfect 48 hours in Vieste:
1. You have just arrived. Get to know the old town.
The city is small and cozy, clinging to a cliff on the upside of the bay, and easy to explore on foot. Get those sneakers on and aim for the old town. Follow the heart-shaped stairs for a romantic view of the area. This will be your first visit to Bar Gelateria Maggiore 1982, but you are not here for the ice cream. Not yet.
Order an aperitivo and soak in the view of the port. This will be your first introduction to the historic center of Vieste.
On the other side of the characteristic arch, more views and impressions are awaiting. Narrow, irregular streets filled with small shops and galleries, leading in to open squares with stunning views of the sea. Go for a stroll and head down to Matteo and Francesco at Pietra pizzeria. I can promise you, you have never had better.
2.Gourmet pizza at Piétra
I'm almost embarrassed to say, during our week of research, we ate at Piétra three times. Bresaola pizza never tastes this good, most likely to the combination of the astonishing dough, sweet «fior di latte», mild salty meat and earthy hazelnut crunch.
The raw tuna on thin foccacia with pistachio pesto truly is to die for. If you prefer your pizza thin and crisp, this is the one. As for the Neapolitan style «Crazy Puglia» with melting lardo from patanegra, it's like drinking satisfaction with the best, chewy crust alongside. Pizza will never be the same again. So go back to the hotel, put your feet up high, and get ready for some sun tomorrow morning. You are heading for the sea.
3. Dive into Temiti Island
The boat for Tremiti leaves every day at 08:30 from the port. The ride takes 2,5 hours each way, so it's the perfect occasion to get lost in a good book or bring some games to enjoy with friends or family. The ride costs 40 euro both ways. If you come before the 15th of June, it might be a solution for the restless to go for the chopter transportation. Outside the main season, you can get the tickets for a bargain and pay only 30 euro each way. The ride will take you about 20 minutes - sources say. We did not try.
At Tremiti Island turquoise water, beautiful caves, and striking nature awaits. You can enjoy a range of activities from architectural history walks to diving or snorkeling. Make sure to book this in advance, through your hotel or online. We went snorkeling and diving with Aquo Diving, and got a great snorkeling tour with the knowledgeable Young marine biologist Emma, showing us sea tomatoes and explaining the species to be found on the Island. Matteo, our friendly diving instructor took us out to see barracudas, large groupers and some breathtaking underwater caves covered with yellow «flowers».
Heading out straight away at 11 turned out to be a good solution, leaving you with enough time for a small lunch at the Island before the boat returns at 16:35. Make sure to bring cash for paying for the lessons. If you will like to spend the last hour exploring or swimming, bring a couple of paninis, or the local street food speciality, paposcia, with local cheese, prosciutto or even tuna, to have on the boat ride back. You will be tired and happy from a full day out in fresh air.
4. Dinner at the Molo
The boat brings you back to the molo where you will find a range of bars and restaurants. You are just on time for an aperitivo at Dejavu Sea View. Relax in the lounge chairs outside and get a drink before dinner at the next-door restaurant, Molo 54.
One of the signature dishes of the arena, ripiena cozze, consist of steamed mussels filled with bread, eggs and cheese, in a rich tomato sauce. Its a must try dish when in Vieste, and easy to replicate at home later on.
The pistachio paccheri with scampi is a creamy delight, made on the owner's nonnas recipe. The local white wine Teresa Manara, a Chardonnet from Salento in Puglia, is oaky yet refreshing. Get a bottle and share the memories from the day.
5. Beachy morning
The morning is best spent at the beach. For sports like windsurfing, kiting, or foil, you will be best of at Scalmarino Beach. Give Astrid og Lucia at Gargano Windsurf a call for equipment or classes, and plan for seafood lunch at Ristorante Ebbro di blu at Cala Azzurra. If you just want to swim and relax, San Lorenzo, closer to the city center, is a good option.
6. Shopping at Non solo intimo and Gabó
After lunch, stop by one of the best shops in town for a fresh set of new clothes. Non solo intimo has some amazing-looking swimwear. For the best menswear in town, Antonio at Gabó Menswear have you covered. Two years ago he moved back from Veneto to open his shop, bringing with him the best style and fabric from the region, fitted to the hot southern climate.
7. Double aperitivi at the Carpenter and Seggio ginoteca
This is where it gets hard. Today you might even have to get two aperitivi. The view at Carpenter simply can't be missed. They make a great negroni spagliato. Have it outside on their panoramic veranda along with the best view in town.
Just around the corner, you will find the tiny, modern gin bar, Ginoteria Seggio Cocktail Bar. Four Pages with gin recommendations, and the most friendly host, Nicola. Try Muma from Puglia, perfectly balanced with sweet cinnamon, camomille, and citrusy notes.
8. Remember to buy Muma gin
You will simply just have to bring a bottle of Muma back, to make your vacation last longer after you get back home. Turn left, and then left again, and buy it at the beautiful shop, Apuglian Experience.
9. Get lost in Ristorante La Ripa
Take a small detour around the seaside of the city to reach your next destination, Ristorante La Ripa for dinner. Here you will get to look the oposite view of the city, overlooking the church of St. Francis.
It's rare to get such a heartwarming welcome as you do at Ristorante La Ripa, and it always makes me happy to see restauranteurs take such great care of their employees.
Anna runs the restaurant with such care, and you can notice it from the minute you set your feet at the doorstep. She has been running this gem for thirty years, noe together with her two sons.
The food is terrific, and the meal starts with six small servings to get your stomach and mind ready for more. Pasta with urchins is an umami bomb, and the anchovies with mozzarella are both clean and intriguing.
We had a table outside in the alley with green plants on all sides. This is the place to get lost and forget about the world for a minute.
10. Sum up the flavors of Gargano in a bite of gelato
From La Ripa it's only a few meters back to where you started your Vieste experience: Bar Gelateria Maggiore 1982. Try sapori di Puglia or Dolce gargano for mind blowing tastes and a local experience. The pistachio with hazelnuts is the ideal choice for gelato lovers with the same impossible problem as myself: choosing between nutella chocolate and pistachio.
Our stay in Vieste was pure joy and a trip we will cherish for years to come. Do not hesitate to plan your stay here. On advice from the locals, June is the perfect time to come. Not too crowded, not too hot. But whenever you decide to come, you are in for a treat.
